Riesling grapes are readily available in many parts of the world, with The Rheingau region in Germany and the Alsace region in France among those most recognized for producing the white wine widely known for its floral aromas and fruit-forward flavors. On U.S. soil, California’s Anderson Valley and New York’s Finger Lakes region are among the top regions for Riesling production. While both share some similarities in terms of conditions and grape-growing characteristics, several key differences affect the flavor, character and complexity of the grapes grown and wines produced in each.
Contrary to popular belief, Riesling is not always sweet – instead, Riesling wines span a full spectrum of sweetness, with styles ranging from off-dry to dry and a combination of climate, soil, terroir and technique influencing their flavor profiles and characteristics. Just ask Ashley Holland, an acclaimed winemaker and Riesling enthusiast who sources Riesling grapes for her own brand, Read Holland, in Anderson Valley and Riesling grapes from the Finger Lakes Region to craft blends for Brashley Vineyards, in Philo.
Ashley’s interest in Riesling took hold during a five-year stint at Two Rivers, a Marlborough, New Zealand-based vineyard and winery that grew Riesling grapes and produced a Riesling wine named after the owner’s mother, Juliet. The property had just one Riesling block, and Ashley worked closely alongside her colleague, Dave, to develop a white wine worthy of Juliet’s name.
As time went on, Ashley continued to play around with farming practices and production techniques to refine the varietal and see how seemingly small differences affected the final product.
“It was fun to be a part of developing the farming practices to bring out certain flavors in the wine,” Ashley said. “One year, we had huge rains, so we picked early – the block picked heavy, and we couldn’t bring it all in. We went to the vineyard post-rain, though, and the Riesling had not only made it, but tasted insanely delicious with a whole new flavor spectrum.”
Ashley returned to the United States after an opportunity arose to work with renowned winemaker Bob Cabral at Three Sticks Wines in Sonoma County, owned by Bill Price III. She eventually made her way to Anderson Valley, where she learned about the region’s rich history of Riesling. She also developed a deep love for the Pinot Noir produced in the region, which reminded her of the styles created in New Zealand’s Awatere Valley. After seeing Anderson Valley’s ideal grape-growing conditions and finding an old Riesling vine block at Boonville’s Wiley Vineyard, she determined that the Anderson Valley AVA was the perfect place to produce more of the varietal.
“It’s the Swiss Army Knife of wines,” Ashley noted of Riesling, highlighting the white wine’s versatility and adaptability, the latter of which makes Riesling grapes especially fascinating and fun to work with in different regions.
In the Finger Lakes, for example, the “budbreak,” or the part of the growing process where the vines swell and open, takes place much later than in California. The Continental climate of the region is also shorter and more extreme, with rain, disease, air pressure and squalls all contributing to winter die-off and creating other challenges for growers. Photos from the FXL Wagner Vineyard where Brashley’s fruit is sourced are featured below. Anderson Valley, meanwhile, has more of a Mediterranean climate and sees minimal, if any, rain during the growing season.
How do these varying conditions contribute to the flavor profiles of the wine produced in each area?
“California Riesling leans into ripe fruit and lush textures, showcasing sun-kissed vibrancy,” Ashley said. She noted that while California winemakers sometimes face over-ripeness, Finger Lakes producers are more likely to encounter under-ripe conditions. “Seneca Lake Riesling reflects its cool climate with laser-like acidity, delicate minerality and a nuanced sense of place shaped by glacial soils.”
Ashley is careful to note that, despite these distinctions, both wines are equally impressive.
“Riesling is such a barometer of the climate and soil it’s grown in…It’s a ‘zebra versus a horse’ comparison,” she noted. “It reminds me of Chardonnay in that there are so many different styles. If people don’t like it, they just haven’t found their style yet; there truly is something for everyone.”
Regardless of where she’s making Riesling, Ashley aims to create wines with a distinct texture and mouthfeel. She finds that, in the Finger Lakes, the phenolic compounds and flavors extracted from the grape’s skin contribute substantially to the character of the Riesling produced for Brashley Vineyards. In Anderson Valley, meanwhile, the “lees,” or the dead yeast cells and other particles that remain after wine fermentation, make Ashley’s Read Holland Rieslings especially distinctive.
The varied flavors and unique characteristics of Riesling have made it increasingly popular among white wine fans in recent years, and Ashley’s favorite food pairing suggestions for Riesling include Choucroute, roast chicken, pork belly, crab and charcuterie boards. As more enthusiasts opt for white wines, Riesling continues to cement itself a top choice for tables from coast to coast.
While both the Finger Lakes region and Anderson Valley have established themselves central to the United States’ Riesling renaissance, the increasing scarcity of these grapes in Anderson Valley (estimates suggest that there are about 25 acres dedicated to Riesling production remaining in the AVA) makes the Riesling wines produced there that much rarer and more remarkable. There is, however, a renewed interest in revisiting Riesling in the region – but the process requires patience and pre-planning, as it can take years for the vines to start producing and yielding returns. Ashley makes wine from the oldest Riesling still planted in the region, planted in 1976 by Brad Wiley and featured below.
Ashley returned to the United States after an opportunity arose to work with renowned winemaker Bob Cabral at Three Sticks Wines in Sonoma County, owned by Bill Price III. She eventually made her way to Anderson Valley, where she learned about the region’s rich history of Riesling. She also developed a deep love for the Pinot Noir produced in the region, which reminded her of the styles created in New Zealand’s Awatere Valley. After seeing Anderson Valley’s ideal grape-growing conditions and finding an old Riesling vine block at Boonville’s Wiley Vineyard, she determined that the Anderson Valley AVA was the perfect place to produce more of the varietal.
“It’s the Swiss Army Knife of wines,” Ashley noted of Riesling, highlighting the white wine’s versatility and adaptability, the latter of which makes Riesling grapes especially fascinating and fun to work with in different regions.
In the Finger Lakes, for example, the “budbreak,” or the part of the growing process where the vines swell and open, takes place much earlier than in California. The Continental climate of the region is also more extreme, with rain, disease, air pressure and squalls all contributing to winter die-off and creating other challenges for growers. Anderson Valley, meanwhile, has more of a Mediterranean climate and sees minimal, if any, rain during the growing season.
How do these varying conditions contribute to the flavor profiles of the wine produced in each area?
“California Riesling leans into ripe fruit and lush textures, showcasing sun-kissed vibrancy,” Ashley said. She noted that while California winemakers sometimes face over-ripeness, Finger Lakes producers are more likely to encounter under-ripe conditions. “Seneca Lake Riesling reflects its cool climate with laser-like acidity, delicate minerality and a nuanced sense of place shaped by glacial soils.”
Ashley is careful to note that, despite these distinctions, both wines are equally impressive.
“Riesling is such a barometer of the climate and soil it’s grown in…It’s a ‘zebra versus a horse’ comparison,” she noted. “It reminds me of Chardonnay in that there are so many different styles. If people don’t like it, they just haven’t found their style yet; there truly is something for everyone.”
Regardless of where she’s making Riesling, Ashley aims to create wines with a distinct texture and mouthfeel. She finds that, in the Finger Lakes, the phenolic compounds and flavors extracted from the grape’s skin contribute substantially to the character of the Riesling produced for Brashley Vineyards. In Anderson Valley, meanwhile, the “lees,” or the dead yeast cells and other particles that remain after wine fermentation, make Ashley’s Read Holland Rieslings especially distinctive.
The varied flavors and unique characteristics of Riesling have made it increasingly popular among white wine fans in recent years, and Ashley’s favorite food pairing suggestions for Riesling include Choucroute, roast chicken, pork belly, crab and charcuterie boards. As more enthusiasts opt for white wines, Riesling continues to cement itself a top choice for tables from coast to coast.
While both the Finger Lakes region and Anderson Valley have established themselves central to the United States’ Riesling renaissance, the increasing scarcity of these grapes in Anderson Valley (estimates suggest that there are about 25 acres dedicated to Riesling production remaining in the AVA) makes the Riesling wines produced there that much rarer and more remarkable. There is, however, a renewed interest in revisiting Riesling in the region – but the process requires patience and pre-planning, as it can take years for the vines to start producing and yielding returns. Until more plantings become available, Brashley Vineyard will continue to work with Ashley Holland to make her Riesling from her home region, the New York Finger Lakes.
