The Race to Ripeness: Pinot Noir Harvest in Anderson Valley

The Race to Ripeness: Pinot Noir Harvest in Anderson Valley

At harvest time, one expects to see vineyards bustling with workers, tractors and trucks loaded with fruit fighting for space along the twists and turns of Hwy 128. But in Anderson Valley, the harvest looks a little different.

The diversity of growing conditions that make our wine unique also shapes the circumstances and timing of harvest throughout the Valley. Notably, we have:

Dramatically varying soil compositions and drainage, from the rich silty loam of an alluvial plain to the shallow, rockier soil of a steep hillside.

Altitude variations, from the valley floor elevation of around 200 ft to ridgeline vineyards like Skycrest & Lone Tree Ridge, which sit above 2,000 feet.

The proximity to the nearby Mendocino Coast, roughly 15 miles, provides cool coastal air and blankets of protective fog.

Add to the varying geology, the diversity of grape varietals and the different types of wine being produced, and harvest becomes more of a marathon than a sprint. Maggy Hawk Winemaker Sarah Wuethrich sums up the magic of AV this way, “I think Anderson Valley lures so many winemakers because of the incredible quality and diversity found in such a small region: the soil types, elevation, climate, and grape variety differences create a playground for the winemaker to explore the beautiful terroir it has to offer. That, combined with the down-to-earth community and the ability to feel like you’re “escaping” when you’re here- it’s perfect..”

The Art of Winemaking: From Veraison to Sparkling Harvest

As quiet summer days drift by, a silent subtle transformation begins, setting off the anticipation of harvest. Veraison is the salient moment when grapes shift from hard, green berries to soft, vibrant and ripe grapes.

At veraison, the cellars, tanks, and equipment will be clean and ready, as winemakers begin to regularly monitor sugar content in the fruit. Using methods discovered in the 1800s by German engineer Adolf Brix, it’s possible to precisely measure the level of sucrose in a grape. Brix developed a means of measuring dissolved solids in a liquid where 1 gram of sugar in 100 grams of liquid equals 1 degree. We now refer to the level of sugar in a grape in degrees Brix. Winemakers determine the perfect time for harvest based on the level of Brix in their grapes.

Like everything in winemaking, the choice of how many Brix are desired and when to pick is a creative one and guided by the winemaker’s vision for the end result. Generally speaking, sparkling wine fruit is picked when it measures between 18-20 Brix, and Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley really shines between 23-25, although some producers may prefer a bit riper fruit and higher Brix.

The 2023 Vintage: A Late Spring That Will Lead to Great Pinot & White Wine

In Anderson Valley, sparkling producers like Roederer, Scharffenberger, and Lichen Estate, sound the clarion call for the start of harvest shortly after veraison, with grapes making their way from vine to cellar in early August. However, in cooler years like 2011 and 2023, this period commences well into early September. An earlier pick ensures acidity for just the right touch of tartness, resulting in a bright and lively character for bubbles that dance on the palate.

Due to the late and cold spring, the 2023 harvest season is poised to be different than what we’ve experienced the past decade with the drought years, and more familiar to how traditional Anderson Valley harvests were. Farmer Bill Charles remembers the kick-off for harvest was usually the Mendocino County Fair Weekend, always held the third weekend of September. Winemakers and grape enthusiasts are eagerly watching as mid-September approaches, the expected kickoff for the Pinot Noir harvest in the region’s eastern part.

This timeline, as noted by winemaker Joe Webb of Foursight Wines, is somewhat behind the traditional harvest schedules seen in Burgundy, France – a region renowned for its Pinot Noir – and may even trail behind Oregon’s harvest this year, which is atypical for the region. Pinot Noir in the western part of the Anderson Valley and from higher our elevations, along with white wine grapes like Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, will follow closely and ripen within the next few weeks. This late start of harvest this year means some producers will continue their dedicated work well into October and early November.

The Race to Ripeness: Pinot Noir Harvest in Anderson Valley